April 28 Column: How to Grow Melons

I could be wrong, but it sure seems like there aren’t many folks who grow melons in their home gardens. And particularly in our northern, zone 5 climate. I’m happy to report it’s very doable. In this week’s column, I share how to do just that. You can read it below.

Column: Melons need TLC to grow in the Inland Northwest

If you’ve ever tasted a homegrown, vine-ripened melon, you know what a life-altering experience it can be.

Many Inland Northwest gardeners think our season is too short for growing melons. Let me reassure you that it’s very doable if you give the plants a little extra TLC.

My first foray into growing melons began many years ago when I spotted Alaska hybrid cantaloupes in a catalog. After learning they produce mature fruits in just 65 days, I purchased some seeds. I soon planted them and was rewarded with delicious melons that summer.

In recent years, I’ve since switched to three other melon cultivars that have grown really well here. They are Tuscan Napoli cantaloupe, Arava honeydew and Ha Ogen honeydew. They are even more flavorful than Alaska hybrid.

Melons are members of the Cucurbit plant family, which also includes cucumbers, squash and pumpkins. They are a warm-season crop that prefers warm soil. In this region, an easy way to achieve this is by covering the soil surface with a sheet of plastic mulch. I’ve had particularly good luck with green solar mulch.

The primary purpose of plastic mulches is to increase the temperature of the soil. An added benefit is that they virtually eliminate the need for weeding.

To begin warming the soil, I place a sheet of mulch over the melon soil around the first of May. Since our drip irrigation system lays on the top of our raised beds, the plastic mulch goes over it. Then I pin down the sheet so it won’t blow away.

Also on the first of May, I start the melon seeds indoors. As soon as the seedlings have some true (mature) leaves, I begin the hardening-off process. This acclimates them to the intensity of the sunlight and springtime temperatures. It involves putting them outside in an area that gets filtered sunlight for an hour, then bringing them back inside. On the second day, they’re outside for two hours, then back indoors. For a week, I increase the time each day by an hour as well as the amount of direct sunlight they are exposed to.

Once the danger of frost has passed, which is typically in mid-May,  it’s time to plant the seedlings outdoors. To do this, I cut an “x” into the plastic mulch, dig a small hole and plant one. Be careful to press the soil around the roots to eliminate air pockets. I space the seedlings 12 to 18 inches apart.

At planting time, I cover the bed with a sheet of floating row cover. This lightweight fabric allows sunlight and moisture to pass through it. The cover also increases the air temperature by a few degrees. After about two weeks, I remove the cover to allow pollinators access to the plants’ flowers once they start blooming.

Whenever I see that a small melon is developing on a vine, I trim the vine a few inches past where the fruit is attached. This causes the plant to focus its energy on the melon’s growth.

As harvest time approaches, there are three indicators of ripeness to look for. First, the melon will begin separating from its attachment to the vine. Then the melon skin changes to a lighter color. And lastly, yellow jackets start buzzing around as they can smell the melon’s sweet fragrance and want in on the action. When I see these signs, I know it is time to harvest and enjoy.

Video: How to Grow Melons

In my video, you might notice that I didn’t actually plant any melon seeds yet. That’s because it was too early to do so here. I typically start my melon seeds sometime between May 1-5. But I wanted to shoot this video early enough so you could grow melons this season.